7 Aug: Shetland

Fog patches lifting in the morning
It was almost spooky, and, at the same time, so very opportune. Certainly it felt magic. Initially, our crossing of the North Sea towards Shetland had been tropically warm, as if someone was pulling our leg. And then, suddenly, some hundred miles out of Norway, as so often, when warm winds meet cold waters, thick fog surrounded us. We continued with good help of radar and AIS, but even these seemed to give a spectral impression once having passed all the oil platforms. There was no sight of life, not even on the instruments. We were by ourselves with only grounded clouds as our sole neighbors.

As much as it triggered our navigational skills, it visualized how the Vikings must have missed their orientation and eventually their destination in thick fog, continuing westbound to discover yet more land beyond. And what kind of land would we find?

At last modern navigation led us straight to our own destination, Shetland, but it was still only visible in the imaginary world on our plotter- and computer screens. Not until in lee of the island of Bressay the fog, which was as thick as it was low, lifted slightly and Shetland's green slopes rose out of the sea. Almost touching shore we slowly motored into Lerwick, still loosing sight of land from time to time.
Fog over Lerwick
The Vikings regarded the North Sea stretching from the Norwegian coast to the British Isles as their own inland sea. Under good conditions, their fast boats easily sailed over to Shetland in no more than a day and a night. Distances have not changed since, and with modern and more comfortable sailing yachts, it is very feasible to reach Shetland during a summer vacation. Therefore, we were surprised by the very limited number of sailing boats that actually do sail here.

Think of it: From the Norwegian west coast, it takes no more than 30-40 hours to sail to the “Auld Rock”, as the Shetlanders themselves used to call their islands, situated on the border of the North Atlantic Ocean. Until favorable winds allow to cross over, one can slowly continue north along the beautiful Norwegian west coast, turning a waiting time into a Norwegian cruise. Any point between Lista in the south to Statt in the north is equally fine for setting over to Shetland. And finally, would no weather window allow for a crossing that year at all, the planned sail to Shetland would turn into a summer among Norwegian fjords. Not much to loose, in other words.

If you do reach Shetland, you will be rewarded by a dramatic scenery, Norse history, fantastic wildlife, wonderful people and great music.

From Väderöarna (the “Weather Islands”) on the Swedish west coast we quickly sailed over to southern Norway and landed not far from Kristiansand, which took no more than 10,5 hours, or one daysail. A couple of short daysails later, we had already rounded Lista and were ready for the North Sea.

The fact that so few boats cruise in Shetland, leaves the island group almost as untouched and exciting as our ancestors must have experienced them. The only exception to the rule is maybe Lerwick, the main town of Shetland, where numerous thirsty sailing Norwegians call in each year. While the old Vikings were looking for trading goods or searching for new land for their growing community back home, the Vikings of today seem to sail here predominantly thanks to low cost of provisioning (and now I am talking about liquid provisioning carried onboard in bottles and cans).
Many Norwegian yachts moored at Victoria Quay, Lerwick.
Sleepy streets of Lerwick
Regina berthed in Lerwick
The famous Swan (green/white) moored next to legendary "Harry's Department Store" in Lerwick
Water front houses in Lerwick
Boats from other nations were relatively scarce. How come, for instance, are there so few British boats? After all, mainland Britain is easily reached by daysailing via Fair Isle and Orkney. We counted more boats from Iceland than from the UK, but also surprisingly few Swedish boats. The only drawback about Shetland is said to be the distance to get there.

The cruising ground itself is gorgeous and not too challenging, actually. Contrary to Orkney and the rest of Scotland, for instance, you do not need to take tidal currents into account on Shetland. Tides are, of course, in existence, but do only provoke a possible hazard around the north and south caps of Shetland as well as in Yell Sound between Mainland and Yell. Navigation is hence easy, but preferably done at daylight, which is no problem during summer at this high latitude.

A pair of leading lights into Outskerries (the second one in the far distant to be kept sharp in line of the former to avoid dangerous underwater rocks)
Outskerries on a quite fine day
The sailing directions claim it rains less on Shetland than in western Scotland or in Bergen in Norway (which is easily accomplished with Bergen holding the European record). Further, its reputation of having very high wind speeds mainly applies for winter, the guidebook continues. During summer, it says, the average wind speed is Force 3-4 with only an average of three gale days during that period. We must have picked all three of these during our stay, by the way. And there are said to be 11 days of fog during summer in average, of which we picked two.
Approaching the island of Whalsay
Even “marinas” are now being built for visiting yachts, but not by the standard known at more popular cruising grounds. There is nothing wrong in that. The marinas of Shetland simply reflect the number of visiting yachts. On the northernmost island of Unst, for instance, the “marina” consists of one floating pontoon no longer than one boat length. So when we arrived, the marina was “full” with one Dutch boat that just had arrived from Iceland via Faeroes. We tied alongside together with Flying Penguin, a Swedish boat that we sailed in company with at that time.
The "Marina" of Balta Sound on Unst consisting of a floating pontoon of one boat lenght.
Apparently, the people living on Unst regarded the marina now as exceptionally crowded with three boats tying alongside each other. We became the attraction of the island with inhabitants coming down to their port to look at the invaders. Even in the small shop up the hill we were greeted by locals bursting out “Ah, you're from the yacht, are you?!”. Our outfit consisting of foul weather gear and sea boots obviously gave us away. It was like a ticket to contact and socializing. Visitors from the sea have always been welcomed on these islands. It didn't take long until we were all invited to the local regatta party in Uyea Sound, an anchorage on the southern tip of Unst, the following night.

The small shop was adjacent to a garage and we asked if there was a possibility to rent bikes. The pouring rain might feel better if speed was increased compare to walking, we reckoned. “No problem! Take whichever bike you find out there and pay us 5 pounds per bike, that's fine. You can keep them until tomorrow.” We found four suitable bikes, and then asked how we would secure them for the night with no visible lock. The reply came instantly and hearty in the typical accent: “No one will take bikes here!”.
If you think of a small island on the edge of an ocean bordered by Faeroes, Iceland, Greenland and Norway, you might expect a sleepy community with no more future prospects than sheep and salmon farming. Indeed, these are two major industries, and so is offshore oil drilling, but mentioning them alone would not do justice to these entrepreneurial people.

On our bikes, we first cycled to the chocolate factory run by a couple who moved to Unst some years ago, not knowing what to do on this remote place on earth other than they were sure about their desire to live here. They had a couple of months to figure out something and after a unbiassed brain-storming they decided to manufacture luxury hand-made chocolate. They knew nothing about chocolate manufacturing and since there was no one on Shetland either who could help them, they decided to learn it as a handicraft and began to experiment. Today, they make some 4.000 chocolates a week, every one of them done with personal love and care. (www.foordschocolates.com)

In memory of all the fishermen from Bohuslän, Sweden, who came fishing at Unst during a period of 100 years and resulted in the very first Swedish fisherman's church abroad. A heavy storm some years ago took the old church, but the memory remains.
“Oh, this is nothing special”, explained the modest entrepreneur, who turned an idea into a thriving chocolate factory. You should talk to Sonny as well! He has done great things, too! Have you met Sonny, yet?” We had not, so our new chocolate friend was instantly on the phone calling Sonny Priest to arrange for an appointment the following day. Soon, he was back again, regretting that unfortunately, on the following day, there was this big regatta going on and Sonny was deeply involved not working on that Saturday, but he offered to wait for us in his brewery, would we fancy to get there right away, instead. Of course, we did!
We left the warm chocolate smells and jumped onto our bikes in the freezing rain, which had not decreased, and paddled over to the other side of the island where Sonny ran his Valhalla Brewery. Despite being on a late Friday afternoon, Sonny hosted us during two long hours, proudly telling about his success story beginning from nothing to a booming brewery producing no less than 6 different beers with mystic names such as “Old Scatness”, “White Wife”, “Auld Rock”, “Simmer Dim” and “Sjomet Stout”, each with an own story behind.
Sonny and his Valhalla Brewery on Unst
Sonny had worked at the local airport and when it closed down he was made redundant together with a number of his former colleagues.

“When the last plane had taken off, I went to the local pub with my friends for some beers to end the epoch of Unst having an airport.” Sonny began his story. “None of us knew what we would be doing without the airport. I had no wish to end up feeding salmon as a fish farmer, for sure! Anyway, late at night we all stumbled out of the pub to get home after our last day at work.” Sonny halted for a second and then laughed at the memory: “One of my colleagues tripped over the doorstep and fell out of the pub into the street. I remember turning to him saying in laughter ´Ah, Now I know what I will be doing! I will start brewing beer to keep you guys going!´”. And so it was. Sonny would become the brewer of Shetland, even though he, at that time, knew nothing about beer other than how to drink it.

The rest of the story reflects a people as entrepreneurial and strong as nature and the sea has formed them for centuries. ´What you don't know, you can learn´, Sonny had thought, just as the chocolate makers. Since there was no brewery on Shetland, Sonny engaged a consultant from mainland UK. The first brews went fine, but suddenly all following brews were lost, with the noble consultant from the UK being unable to explain why. Nothing turned out into anything resembling of beer. The consultant left for a short holiday, when Sonny, certain to go bankrupt, began to experiment by himself, using the knowledge he had gained from his consultant. By the time the expert had returned after a couple of days, Sonny had not only made 7 wonderfully tasty brews, but also made his adviser redundant. The rest is a wonderful saga of pure hard work, a nose for marketing and good tasting Viking-beers. (www.valhallabrewery.co.uk)

After two hours in the brewery, Sonny's wife quietly explained that dinner was on the table (and perhaps it was for quite some time, already). We left on our bikes waving and saying we would meet again on the regatta party the following day. Little did we know that we would not; Sonny would be deeply involved in a rescue operation searching for a missing small boat overdue from Faeroes.

I must say, I got really got inspired by the people on Shetland! Possibly we, too, should try something totally new? If you don't know the profession, you can always learn! It seems never to be too late!

Balta Sound, Unst
The next night we all met again at the regatta party, only Sonny was missing. Unst has so few inhabitants that we felt we already knew quite a number of them. I got immediately invited for a whiskey from one of our new Unst-friends, joining him for “a toast for our sailing guests from Sweden!”. The friendly lady whom we had met in the small shop was there, too, and had taken with her press cuttings from a Swedish Viking ship called Skidbladner. We would soon learn more about this Swedish Viking ship.

“Where is Sonny?”, I asked. “Oh, he is out searching for an overdue sailing boat.”. And now we learnt how serious Shetlanders take rescue operations. Already in Lerwick, we had seen the Lifeboat at the Victoria Quay, who is so famous that its brave crew is mentioned both in the brochure about Shetland, as well as by the museum. We had followed the lifeboat on a mission when it went out assisting a Swedish yacht on its way to Lerwick, which was about to loose its mast in a gale. You bet the Swedes were equally impressed and thankful to get such a welcome to Shetland.
The lifeboat of Lerwick has just returned after assisting a Swedish yacht, which almost lost its mast in a gale.
The overdue sailing boat from Faeroes was apparently white with a blue stripe, not unlike many other boats, just as our own Regina, but it was no Hallberg-Rassy. While Sonny was doing his job on the north side of Unst, a helicopter took off searching the entire coast around Shetland. Since Regina looked similar to the missing boat, we had been circled several times by the helicopter with a number of low passes to check if we possibly could be the overdue vessel. Since we were not, they went off to check the next boat in another anchorage. For me, this showed also how few boats there are cruising around in these waters. Where else would every white boat with a blue stripe be checked this carefully?

Later that night, we learnt that the helicopter finally had found the overdue boat out at sea with boat and crew sound and safe. Sonny, however, missed the regatta party.
What kind of people are these brave Shetlanders, living on the edge of the North Atlantic Ocean, so proud of their country? Many locals we talked to express an equal link to Scotland as to Norway. After 500 years under Norse government and then, being given to Scotland as a dowry, it has been under Scottish influence for the most recent 500 years. The Shetland-flag reflects this, being a hybrid between the two: It is formed like a Scandinavian flag with its significant horizontal cross, but flying Scottish colours.
Learning more about the history of Shetland is as easy as it is illustrative and living. Lerwick has a very well made museum, only recently opened in 2007. They calculated with some 35.000 visitors per year, but in the first year well over 100.000 people had come to learn about Shetland and its geological and human history. Apparently, there was a demand not only from tourists but also from the people on Shetland themselves who must have gone there several times already: There are only 22.000 people on the entire island group with some 7.000 living in Lerwick. With no more than some thousands of tourists visiting Shetland each year, for sure, the museum must be popular among Shetlanders themselves.

While the museum is well worth a visit, it is not comparable with meeting history as it is disclosed. No matter how well a museum is made, and the Lerwick museum is very modern and pedagogical, it only reflects the archeological results. On Shetland, you see, there is more than results: There is a fair chance you stumble over one of the numerous excavations currently taking place, and that is really exciting!
The excavations at Hamar on Unst. To the right Balta Sound.
We climbed up a ridge facing the eastern side of Unst. From here, you had a marvelous view over the North Sea towards Norway, which must have seemed perfect for Vikings looking for a suitable habitat. With the protected Baltasound at your feet full of fish, this site must have been perfect for a settlement.
In fact, a dozen or so archeologists were working hard with an excavations right there, which was called “Hamar”, finding what seemed to be one of the largest longhouses ever found on Shetland. “We don't know, yet, what kind of settlement this was, since we have so far only found two houses and one of them is so much bigger than anything we know of”, Zoe from the North Atlantic Research Unit (NARU) explained. And then, Zoe gave us a private tour of the site. “Possibly this big longhouse should reflect power. Imagine sailing in from Norway...” Zoe paused and pointed to the open sea to the east. “The first sight must have been this huge longhouse as they came closer. Unst is the natural first halt to Shetland sailing from Norway, you see. Most likely, this was the first stop for the Vikings coming from their home country and a representative house was possibly appropriate to welcome the new visitors.” Zoe theorized. And then she continued: “You see, the Vikings had more or less regular boat traffic in all directions on the North Sea, almost like a ferry link! Another important Viking centre was at Sumburgh Head at the very south tip of Shetland, so don't miss Old Scatness and Jarlshof down there!”.
We got a long tour on the site, being able to speak to archeologists and get a good feel on how they think and why they work the way they do. History has never felt as living as when we followed their work, revealing secrets of our ancestors. (www.vikingshetland.com)
There were not only the Viking ships of the past that made it to Unst, by the way. Not many years ago, a handful of brave Swedish boys built themselves a replica of a Viking ship and sailed it from Stockholm on their way to “Vinland”, i.e. America, following the northern route of the Vikings via Shetland, Faeroes, Iceland and Greenland. One stormy grey day they surfed into Unst, left the Viking ship to itself and vanished from the island as quickly as they had appeared. The ship's name was Skidbladner and still lies where it was left with its Vinland expedition unfinished. This was, at least, how the people on Unst told us the story behind how they ended up with a Viking ship sitting on the shore of Harolds Wick not far from Balta Sound. Today, Skidbladner has come under the protected wings of the “Boathaven”, an outstanding marine museum on Unst and well worth a visit. The museum is not large, but still gives a good impression on the famous small boats traditionally sailed in Shetland. Shetlanders have always been known for their skillful handling of very small boats in rough seas.
The Boathaven at Harolds Wick on Unst
The fact that Shetlanders were thought after by the Royal Navy was the downside of that coin. Their search for able-bodied men to crew the Navy's ships was much feared, and preparations for evading the pursuing sailors were always in hand. Best place to hide away were the Outskerries, the off-lying islands to the east, where isolated landing points and secret caves along the rugged coastline were perfect for evading the press gang and for smugglers alike.

We really fell in love with the Outskerries on our way south along the coast of Shetland. The days of hiding away have gone, but there are still hidden treasures to be found in these waters around the Outskerries, which is filled with wrecks as numerous as their stories about gold and silver cargo.

Regina moored at the "marina" on Outskerries. Not much gold in these treasures!
The harsh coastline of the Outskerries
The supermarket at Outskerries. It took its time for us to find its entrance.
Fresh eggs sold on Outskerries
The island of St. Ninian, where a schoolboy, as we was helping archeologists as a volunteer, found a silver treasure of undisclosed value in 1956. Would we find a treasure as well?
We followed Zoe's suggestion to find more historic treasures at Sumburgh Head at the very south tip of Shetland. Here, excavations have already been finalized. This makes these sites no less interesting, since they have been left open for visitors to study and to stroll around. A good anchorage within walking distance from sumburgh Head is Grutness Voe, well protected from most winds, except North East.
2000 year old Wheelhouses at Jarlshof
Jarlshof at Sumburgh Head shows more than 4000 years of continuos inhabitation. No less than 6 main levels have been excavated, from a prehistoric Stone Age hut around 2000 b.c. through an Iron Age broch and wheelhouses to a sizable Viking village and medieval farmstead. Audio guides led us around the excavations, explaining the various epochs ending with the cruel Earl Patrick Stewart, who was one of the last to live at Jarlshof.
Jonathan investigating an old wheelhouse and Jessica listening to the audio guide
Earl Patrick Stewart had not only an estate at Sumburgh Head, but also a castle in Scalloway, the former main town of Shetland before Lerwick became the capital. We arrived to the castle in the late afternoon and found its door locked.

A sign on the door told us that a key could be obtained at the Scalloway Hotel.

The walking distance to the Hotel was just long enough to justify a pint of draft, before heading back to the castle carrying a huge old fashioned key with an even larger key-ring named “Castle Key”. The pints in the hotel had changed the day into twilight and it was a spooky feeling to approach the ruin at dusk, to find the key hole and to open the old heavy door leading into the dark rooms that followed behind the arm-thick walls. The door closed behind us with a squeaking sound as we continued along the dark corridors leading further in. Suddenly, as if managed by a ghost, all lights went on. It is not every day we almost got a heart attack from a movement detector!

Scalloway castle
To experience wildlife, we found Outskerries and Sumburgh Head outstanding, the latter especially for watching puffins at close distance. It was overwhelming to just quietly sit down and to follow the elegant nosedives of kittiwakes, the take-offs and landings of gannets, to observe the guillemots resting on the sea waves, seeing the majestic flights of the bonxis and finally, our highlight, to adore the sweet puffins, which look like parrots of the sea.
Hiking on Outskerries in search for birdlife
Birdwatching
After a long day's hike in Shetland's refreshing climate (average temperature in July are merely 12 deg C in the water as well as in the air), it feels good to slink into one of the many cozy pubs. Despite our newly purchased warming sweaters, hand-made according to ancient knitting traditions out of Shetland wool, we all agreed to the fact that Shetland is, indeed, cool, especially literally!

We left the cold outside and followed the music and entered the Douglas Arms in Lerwick. On Tuesday nights, traditional Shetland fiddle music is being played here, which we didn't want to miss. No visit to Shetland can be regarded as complete without a traditional music night! The music is swinging and very special, since it has not been influenced by any celtic traditions and hence totally lacks both the harp and the bagpipe.

For sure, The Shetland Fiddle is a great companion to a pint of “Auld Rock” ale, brewed by Sonny at his Valhalla Brewery on the northernmost island in Britain.

For more information, please also see:
Clyde Cruising Club Part 6: Shetland Islands for sailing directions
and www.visitshetland.com