25 July: In Search for a Five Star Guinness |
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| My body was being warmed by the engine underneath. I was naked, having just finished my shower, which actually had been equally warm, but significantly more comfortable. I was cramped, where I was squeezed into position in the engine room, with my head hanging on one side of the engine and my feet sticking out into the cabin on the opposite side. A headlamp was giving me an indication of where I should place the screwdriver in order to undo the shower pump. The hose clamp was not as hard to loosen as I had thought, so I quickly got it undone. Then came the big surprise: My own shower water I had just been enjoying so much, was bursting out of the hose, giving me a second shower, directly into my face and particularly into my nose! For sure, the water was still warm, but how could it have become so smelly? For sure, I felt clean and fresh now after the shower the original shower that was. Showers are not taken onboard as often as ashore, which I now got a first hand experience of. Besides, two shower within an hour was really to overdo it, even for a land-lubbers standard, although this might have been a good example of recycling our dear fresh-water onboard. The pressure water pump, which we had exchanged in Tobemory the previous week, had been an easy task in comparison, although that pump was completely broken down, leaking oily water from the motor housing. For the pressure water pump, we had had a spare one onboard and simply exchanged it. Maybe this was the expensive way to do it, but certainly the efficient way to solve a problem, provided you have a spare one onboard, of course. Anyway, leaking oil out of the pressure water pump was not a healthy sign and the diagnosis was hence dead within shortly and the decision to exchange it was quickly taken. The shower pump of today, however, was another issue: the motor was running fine, but the valves did not shut completely, prevented the used shower water to leave the boat. I was annoyed by the fact that the shower pump did not suck as properly any longer. I screwed down the pump from the engine room wall and I looked at it with suspicion. I could see one valve, which did not close completely, but this could possibly not be the complete story. It worked better after me cleaning it, for sure, but still not as good as it should. Another item had come onto my to-do-list! |
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| The weather had been so bad that not all of the registered members of the HR squadron actually showed up at their first port of call. Since Rob and Karen gave the HR squadron the same hearty welcome as we had experienced by them, the HR sailors asked Rob and Karen to join them for dinner that night. It all resulted in the fact that Rob and Karen continued to sail in the squadron as a powered Hallberg-Rassy, enjoying numerous Scottish islands sailing in just 7 knots, as he remarked. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Aphros - The only power-boat that I have heard of having sailed in a Hallberg-Rassy squadron | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Rob knew nice things to see not only in Glenarm and in his home town Bangor, but also suggested future harbors to visit along our way south on the Irish coast. He never hesitated to mention the best pubs for each and every port he pointed at on the chart, in order to find the best Guinness. You see, he said seriously, We always judge the places we go to by the food we can eat and the Guinness we are served. We have a scale ranging from 1 to 5, classifying the beer we drink. A five star Guinness is one you never forget, a four is one you finish with joy, an average 3 star is a Guinness you drink up without a special comment, the 2 star Guinness is one you dont finish and a 1-star Guinness you dont even continue to drink once you have taken the first sip. We always try to pick the fives!. How could Rob know so much about all the draughts in all these pubs, even explaining off which tap we should order our Guinness in the corresponding bars? I would soon learn why. In Bangor, just outside Belfast in Northern Ireland, Rob and Karen stood on the pier once more, taking our mooring lines, welcoming us to their home port. It didnt take long until we got the hottest tips again, which beer-tab to choose when ordering our Guinness in the pubs around, ensuring we would only get fives, as Rob sees it. But we also learnt where the best fish could be bought, the best café in town was placed and where Jonathan and I could find the barbershop we failed with in Mallaig. All these pubs were tempting places to go, for sure, but they had to wait right now. I had other, more hands-on, shops to visit! Adjacent to the marina was a chandler. That was a good start for me to hunt up a valve for the pump and a relay for the alternator. This first chandler did not have a relay, but was helpful enough to find a new shower pump for us, branded Jabsco, while ours was a Whale-pump. I didnt want to change brand, since holes and hoses, as well as electrical cables were readily laid for my Whale pump. Next stop was Nautical World in High Street. I immediately felt that Neil Ervin, running the chandler, would go a long way to help his customers out of any problems having to do with boat equipment. He looked at me and said: Did you know? You have come to Whale city! Whale pumps are actually manufactured in Bangor and their head office is up the road!" And then Neil continued to explain that he did not have a service kit for our pump on stock and that he nowadays had to order every Whale product from England, which took several days and involved transportation costs. "Three months ago", he continued with some sorrow in his voice, "I could still just have driven up the road to get the valves for you, but now it all has to go through this distributor in England. New ordering routines, you know . Back at Regina, with neither a relay nor valves but instead with shorter hair and some fresh fish in our bags, Rob was standing by his boat filling up water, waving to us. As always, he was greeting us with a big smile, asking what we had been doing in Bangor so far. I confessed I was running after spare parts rather than Guinness right now, and mentioned the situation about the new distribution line of Whale. |
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| Rob - always up for fun! | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Oh I know these guys at Whale! They are customers of mine. Really nice people! Call them and tell them about your problem. Im sure theyll help! And this relay thing
. Wait, Ill call my electrician, he might know where you can get one! Rob got his mobile phone out of his pocket, dialed a number he seemed to know by heart and while talking to his electrician, he relayed the questions to me: Is it a 12 volts relay...?" I nodded. "Does it say 30 amps on it
? I nodded again. OK
Is it a four pin, you want
? I nodded once more,now with a smile in my face. Yes
Ok, so at Bangor Autoparts? Fine Thanks! - Bye! and then Rob turned to me: Ill drive you up there, its just next to the butcher, where they make the best sausages in Northern Ireland! Did you possibly smell them in Glenarm where we met first? I had them on our barbeque on our boat, remember? Didnt they smell fantastic? If you want, we can stop by the butcher as well and you can order some meat and sausages there. If you ask the butcher, hell even vacuum-pack it for you. Thats what he does for me! Ill come with you to make sure you get it all vacuum-packed! |
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| Soon thereafter we all sat in Robs car, me eagerly hoping for a new relay and Karolina not missing the chance to stock up our freezer with some good lamb, pork and sausages. During the car ride, I understood why Rob new most beer taps not only in Bangor or in Ireland but in most countries in the world: his company was manufacturing 2 Mio meters (thats 2 000 000 m!) of beer tubes every months, shipping them to all kinds of pubs around the globe! The tubes are bundled and isolated to cables so that the cold beer originating from the cellars under the bars reach the pub taps in fresh and well-chilled condition. No wonder he was into pubs and beer! With a beautiful new relay, I was a happy man again! The hierarchy onboard was restored, with my subjects following orders without any need for pats on the back. If now also the people at Whale would be just as helpful, this would definitely be a reason to go out for a Guinness! |
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| One of Rob's favorite pubs in Bangor called "First Port". To get a Five-star Guinness, the tap furthest from the door must be chosen! Unfortunately, at 21.00, the pub was no longer allowed for children, so we had to go to the pub next door, instead, which obviously was fine for children... Oh, and please observe the palm-trees! We're getting south!! | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| I called Whale Water Systems and talked to the sales department, who confirmed that it was unfortunately impossible to sell any products or spare parts to me, or even a chandler in town; it all had to go through the distributor in England. However, if I wanted to claim warrantee, he could put me through to Bill Hunter who would be able to help me. Bill had been working for Whale for many years, both knowing their products as well as customer needs. If you happen to be in Bangor right now, you can always come up with your problems., he said on the phone, Any warranty issue is, of course, always a free service of ours! Half an hour later, I stood in the reception of Whale Water Systems. They were already awaiting me and within a couple of minutes Bill had taken the pump apart, showed me that some hair had become stuck in the valves inside the pump and gave me a totally new pump housing onto which my motor was being screwed. Bon Voyage! If this wasnt worth a Guinness, then what else? The entire Regina-crew went out to a pub enjoying a Guinness, which I would class as a very strong four, maybe a four-to-five. |
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| With a new relay and a repaired shower pump, a Guinness is well placed. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Maybe you have some prejudices against black beer? Maybe you have only had porter out of a bottle or even worse out of a can? Maybe you have not yet visited Ireland, and especially not Dublin, nor have you tasted a Guinness out of a tap made by Rob and his 70 employees? In that case, you have my full understanding that you not yet have tasted a real pint of Guinness! At the same time, however, a feeling of pity comes over me. You have still something great to look forward to! |
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| Guinness is like an ice cream. Smooth, black and with a most beautiful foam topping. The foam has the pleasure to remain beautiful throughout the entire enjoyment of the pint, until the bitter end. Guinness is like chocolate, the best dark chocolate you can imagine. It makes you feel good. It is good for your body. Guinness also means friendship, since you preferably share a Guinness with someone you like. If you dont have any friends, never mind, you get some new ones in the pub nearby. Guinness is good for you is written on numerous signs in Dublin and was even called out after us as as we left the famous Temple Bar in Dublin. Guinness is good for you
. How easily this is being confirmed! After a pint of Guinness, you regard things more relaxed and you dont think that a recycled shower into your face as you lie cramped on top of a Volvo-Penta D2-55 is a major issue any longer, really.
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| Eating and drinking Guinness - the perfect combination! | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Since Jessica and Jonathan not (yet) could share a Guinness with us, we found a dark chocolate made of same, similar to the Macallan single malt whisky marmalade we discovered in Scotland earlier. I think Karolina got just as excited about the chocolate, being the chocolate freak in our family (with Jonathan in close competition on this title). | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Dublin is the home town of Guinness and is really a city with pulse. We were overwhelmed by all impressions, pubs and people, especially since we merely had left the calm Hebrides. Formed by the Vikings as a major trading post, Dublin later became the center of boat building for the Vikings. In the Middle Ages, Dublin was administrated by the English crown, surrounded by Ireland, and has always been a metropolis for immigrants and traveling salesmen. If Dublin ever has been a forgotten city within Europe, it has now definitely been aroused out of its slumber, having become a popular and cool place to be in and to live in. Building and construction sites were seen everywhere and one could tell: this was a booming city. |
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| Dublin - one big construction site. A booming city! | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Heavy traffic in Dublin. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The famous Temple Bar in Dublin | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Instead of Dublin, we chose to berth Regina in Malahide, just a 20 minutes train ride north of Dublin. Malahide was a calm haven compared to the city of Dublin. Flowers were hanging from each and every window, of which most what else? belonged to pubs. If not Rob had recommended it so strongly, we would never had dared to enter this marina, showing drying sandbanks in the middle of the entrance and a minimal depth of 0.3 m at low water, thus only accessible three hours on either side of High Water, meaning that we had to do our calculations carefully. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| In Malahide, we followed another tip of Rob, called James Gibneys & Sons, where we enjoyed a very, very strong Four on our way home from a busy day in Dublin. A fantastic atmosphere surrounded us, with horse racing on TV screens and excitement in the air, as the betters were sipping their Guinnesses, eagerly following the horses on the screens. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| After a long day in Dublin, it is good for you to take a Guinness in Malahide, before going home to Regina. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Our last day in Dublin took us to the Guinness Store House, the actual brewery of the black gold. We learnt how Arthur Guinness bought a run down brewery in 1759 and started to brew ale. At that time, there were more than 200 breweries in Dublin, of which 20 were on his doorstep. Beer was much safer to drink than contaminated water, hence consumption was considerable - for safety reasons. Maybe the Dubliners already 250 years ago claimed that "Guinness is good for you". Arthur Guinness was smart enough to distinguish himself from the other breweries by following a new trend from London: A new type of beer called Porter became very popular in these days. Therefore, in 1799, he decided to brew his last ale and, instead, exclusively concentrated on porter, which obviously was a very successful recipe. Arthur Guinness was a typical entrepreneur with a feel for trends, understanding the value of scale. At the same time, he was known to be very generous, allowing for paid for holidays for his employees, paid 10-15% higher wages than others, started Dublins first Sunday school, as well as was seeing to widows pensions in case an employee died. For this last reason, mothers were said to suggest to their young girls to go and find a Guinness-man since he was valuable both alive and dead... All according to the very well presented, pedagogical and, of course, selling exhibition in the old Guinness ware house. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Step by step, we could follow how the four ingredients barley, hop, water and yeast finally become Guinness. The only thing I possibly could criticize was when there was one sign expressing that making wine was not difficult in comparison, it was just to cross grapes, let them ferment and ready was the wine, while making a beer, and especially a Guinness, was a complicated process with many important steps. Well, everyone believes in his own products
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| The heart of Guinness - The Brewery | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| The tour ended on the 7th floor, on the very top of the brewery. Here, Dublins highest bar called Gravity was placed, where they served a complimentary pint of Guinness (i.e. it was included in the entrance fee ). | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| In the Gravity Bar above the Guinness brewery with a wonderful view over the entire Dublin and surroundings | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| One thing was for sure: This Guinness, pumped directly from the brewery underneath, was a very clear Five Star Guinness! | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||