Letter No 11 sent on 12 Aug 2001 19:06
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| The plates were piled with Danish food. I had a huge plaice fish (Rödspätta/Scholle) and the children had a Greek salad each, where the olives rolled down the lettuce and were stopped here and there by bits of Greek cottage cheese acting as obstacles on the downhill slopes. I had my second pint of Carlsberg.
What a cosy hotel Jonathan said looking around in the dining room. Although one could argue about that, I was happy being with both children on this secret trip to Legoland, which we would not tell mamma until her arrival. I was thinking of a toast to absent friends and suggested Skål to mamma. - Yes, both kids replied, Skål that mamma is gone far, far away sailing in Norway! Otherwise, we would not have gone to Legoland! Piiiip Piiip. An SMS arriving! I found some space between Jonathans and my large plates (I moved mine a bit), placed the telephone on the wine-red paper tablecloth and read: 22-24 knots of Wind. Speed 7,5 knots. Huge waves. Only water and bred. At helm steering or in berth resting. Karolina. I took another sip of my Carlsberg. The SMS reminded Jessica of Pippi Långstrump, whose father, Ephraim Långstrump, was kept as a prisoner among dreadful pirates. There, in his prison, he got only water and bread, Jessica explained. Jonathan wanted to know how many times mamma had vomited already, so we sent off this question as an SMS, but did not receive an answer that night. Time to go to bed. After a very hectic week (I am the only one at the office at the moment), I fell to sleep together with the children at 21.00 already. After a long night sleep, we were woken up by a new SMS in the morning. Now already 5 nights at sea. Speed of 9 knots in 30 knots of gale wind. 12-14 feet waves. Horrifying delight! (<Skräckblandad förtjusning!>). No food - no vomit. Karolina I really start to get bad conscience to eat food, drink beer and sleep all night. What is Karolina actually undertaking? What did she mean with Skräckblandad förtjusning! meaning both horror and delight at the same time? I had to wait all day for more details until she called at 23.00 Saturday night. They had now safely arrived at Mandal and rounded the southernmost tip of Norway - Lindesnes. They had all been having a Pizza in a local restaurant which was wonderful. The smell of food onboard Mahina just did not invite Karolina to eat and, instead, had the opposite effect. On these last two days, Karolina voluntarily abandoned cocked meals. However, on the second day, she felt clearly better than the first, she added.... She had even been able to sleep well in the end and once slept for a total of three (3) hours in one go, which was fantastic, she thought! Two days earlier, John had explained that since the sea is picking up, one has to take the waves exactly from the stern, otherwise one can broach the boat if a wave hits from the side. Breaking waves should be avoided, where possible. How should Karolina cope with the job at the helm? Thinking of this, sleeping had been difficult in the beginning. It is a hard job to steer in these conditions, Leon, Karolina explained on the telephone, You have to concentrate all the time and the helm gets heavy in the end in these waves. You always have to think ahead and steer before the wave hits you from the stern and lifts Mahina up like in an elevator.... 4 meters up, 4 meters down - 4 meters up, 4 meters down. During such conditions, John was like one big smile himself. He loves the sea and thinks that this is just perfect sailing condition. Amanda moves easily like a cat on the rocking deck. They are both very experienced and good sailors. Earlier today, just before rounding the rock of Lindesnes, they had a shower on board. Karolina felt like a new woman afterwards and tried to remember when she had brushed her teeth the last time... If you ask me, they must have adopted quite well to the movements onboard when taking a shower was at all an option on open sea. Well, you see, the seas had decreased in size by then, Karolina explained. Karolina never feels afraid and totally safe in the hands of John and Amanda. I sure will, too, feel confident sailing with Karolina on REGINA in the future! Her limits have been pushed onwards and upwards all the time. Of course, she is not as unified with the open sea as John and Amanda are. Having the choice, Karolina said still to prefer comfortable day-sailing like they did at Lofoten while offshore passage making is more like work rather than a joy ride, especially when it is this cold. Well, who wouldnt agree? These last days have given her a fantastic experience. Although two weeks of sailing on Mahina can not replace years and years of sailing experience, Karolina has definitely become a safer seaman and has clearly gained new perspectives on sailing. Like when she ended the phone call by saying: Our next leg will just be a short 120 miles sail. Remember: The distance between Ystad and Germany is 50 miles... Karolina feels that she has now arrived in home waters: the sea of Skagerack. We have already almost sailed as far as Mandal with our first sailing boat, the 21 foot Albin Viggen CELICIA. Karolinas local knowledge guiding them along the Norwegian South and Swedish West Coast with Bohuslän will certainly be a special joy for her. I wonder which route they will take from now on.... |
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| "While Amanda and I had been saying our thanks to the sea goddess for an easy passage others onboard were experiencing conditions beyond their sailing dreams and we later learnt of these two phone messages that Karolina had hurriedly whisked away in spare moments." Capt John Neal |
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| "Surfing Southward! Upon leaving Alesund at 1600 we planned to sail offshore to Bergen, 180 miles south, but when both Commander's Weather and Leon Shultz (Karolina's husband) suggested making more miles before forecasted southerly gales could thwart progress we reconsidered stopping. The payoff has been surfing at up to 9.5 knots, in (now) sunny skies, well offshore and out of the dangerous wave zones. The winds are forecast to drop from near gale to westerly Force 3-4 tomorrow (Saturday) afternoon, before becoming southerly, Force 5 Saturday night" Capt John Neal |
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| "If we keep this speed and the weather holds, we should reach Mandal, the southernmost town in Norway, 170 miles away before the southerly blow. Several of the crew mentioned that heavy weather experience was one of their reasons for selecting this leg. They're not disappointed, and it has been gratifying to see them, now free of seasickness, mastering ocean steering skills in impressive seas!" Capt John Neal |
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| "Our arrival in Mandal Saturday night coincided with the annual "Festival of the Sea", which one happy Norwegian explained is a giving of thanks to all the things in the sea which animals eat. Well, that didn't make much sense but judging by the flying shrimp shells, lined up empty beer bottles, sunny warm weather (for a few hours), travelling amusement rides, and two competing and very well amplified stages (one with belly buttoned go-go dancers and another with a sing-along-band) it was PARTY TIME!!! After our many days of difficult sailing we weren't quite in the party mood so we opted for an early pizza dinner ashore and the chance to catch up on our sleep in a marina several blocks away from the noisy festival center." Capt John Neal |
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| A town of North Norway, built by Lego, as seen in Legoland | ||||||
| " As we pressed south beyond Bergen our good winds held and only lightened for a few hours in the early morning on Saturday during which we motorsailed to steady the boat. We still could not believe our good fortune when we rounded Lindesness with NW winds and a 1017 barometer, phew, so different from our rounding last year when we had to claw our way around "the Nose of Norway" in day after day of gale force headwinds." Capt John Neal |
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