Letter No 7 sent on 6 Aug 2001 11:50
On Saturday, we went for an hours sail on our own boat REGINA with my visiting sister Jenny and her beloved 2 year old Clara, who missed it all by sleeping.

I can’t recall having sailed with the children and without Karolina, so the kid’s reactions were interesting.

5 year old Jonathan was as eager as ever to help his father to prepare the boat and to get out of the berth, now since mamma was not around. After Jonathan had hoisted the mailsail (together with me), he proudly took over the helm taking us “out to sea”. Throughout each and ever maneuver, he eagerly explained all he knew about the task, how to do it and why. My poor sister had to listen to it all, while understanding that her brother’s son was just like his father! After a while, Jonathan considered everything in order and suddenly handed over the helm to Jenny, went under deck and went to sleep shortly after. He was off watch now and he had replaced Karolina in a way he was content with.

7 year old Jessica, however, reacted totally differently. She placed herself in her favourite corner under the sprayhood leewards looking out toward the horizon watching the waves. “How are you?” I asked Jessica after a while. She hadn’t moved since we left port. “Fine. I like sailing”, she answered quietly. After a long, long time watching the waves and the horizon, some tears slowly poured down her cheeks. It took an even longer time until she admitted that sailing was incomplete for her without her Mom Karolina.
Mahina slowly approaching Svartisen, taken by Karolina
Sailing is a “family affair” for us we do together and we all miss Karolina onboard REGINA. I am looking forward to her returning with new knowledge and seamanship! And a lot of new yarn to tell about her fantastic experiences. Like last night’s destination at the Holandsfjord south of Bodø, where they arrived after a 100 nm sail. It took 11 hours, starting at 7:00 am arriving at 6:00 pm on Sunday evening.

Now did they have dinner, take a shower and exhaustedly go to bed? No, no! Shortly after anchoring in this extremely remote place they went hiking in the night climbing up the most fantastic glacier SVARTISEN (the “black ice”). “Svartisen” is the second largest glacier in Northern Europe (370 km2) and starts high up in the Norwegian mountains, at 1 599 m above sea level to be precise. The extraordinary with this glacier is that It ends just a few meters above sea level into the Holandsfjord, where Mahina Tiare now is anchored while her crew hikes up the ice and snow. This makes Svartisen the lowest glacier in Europe! The glacier must give some most impressing views. I found some information regarding Holandsfjord on the Internet (see below). Some pictures taken from the Internet showing Holandsfjord, where Karolina is right now, are also enclosed.
It seams that Karolina’s regular training, running and aerobics has not only been necessary but also effective. I keep getting SMS-mails all around the clock and I really start to wonder when this crew is resting?!

They returned from the hike at 23.00 on Sunday night and the first question in an SMS was about the weather for the next couple of days, since they will be leaving for their next leg early next morning. This following leg will be 350 nm, all the way to Ålesund. This weather forecast is more challenging for me than the ones before. A Low will cut their course moving from West to East while Mahina is sailing from North to South. I am wondering if I should suggest a more offshore route (longer with better winds) or closer to Norway (shorter with headwinds)...
Svartisen found on Internet
This Monday morning she called a short “good bye” since we won’t be hearing from here for a couple of days, while sailing the high seas. The only thing she had time to say before taking over the responsibility for navigation was: “Leon, we have to sail up here one day! At the breakfast table we discussed other equally great places to see and John recommended the West Coast of Ireland. He says it is also spectacular while being somewhat more comfortable in temperatures...” "Hollandsfjorden, 66.42N, 13.42E had been one of the most favorite stops on our voyage north and when we sailed into the deep fjord it appeared even more beautiful. The clouds, fog and drizzle cleared away and the afternoon sun turned the spectacular and rugged glacier alight with many shades of iceblue. Everyone put on running or hiking shoes and headed up the mountain, passing bell-ringing sheep and cows along the way, for a closer look at the ice. Once again there was a free and secure guest dock so we could come and go easily, without having to wait for the dinghy."
Capt John Neal
Mahina ghosting along Svartisen (taken on leg1)
The only thing I know about the West Coast of Ireland is that it is totally exposed to the Atlantic with weather, tide and winds above average, to give some understatement. I have read Björn Larsson’s books (highly recommended and translated into many languages, e.g. “The Celtic Ring”, USD 11.96 at www.amazon.com (In English)). He loves these waters, but they are not to play with.

Karolina has really changed regarding choice of sailing waters! And me, who was looking forward to some tropical waters!!!!
Karolina investigating Svartisen
Joe and John at Svartisen

Next E-mail